If you’re passing anywhere near Rockland, Maine before the end of this month, be sure to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum. They have an excellent collection and lots of location-appropriate coastal landscapes for you to view. But right now, they’re also showing an interesting series of pictures by Jamie Wyeth (paint scion descending from grandfather N.C. and father Andrew–both featured prominently in the Farnsworth’s regular collection).

His show, The Seven Deadly Sins, is a series of visceral paintings of seagulls illustrating each of the deadly sins. But my favorite painting wasn’t an illustration of a sin. It’s the picture of a a scrawny boy with no shirt shoveling garbage into an incinerator on the beach while the gulls fly around trying to grab scraps before the refuse goes in the fire. Apparently, this is a makeshift, portable incinerator created on Monhegan Island, and, yes, the scary flames are stoked by a young boy. Apparently Department of Labor and OSHA reps haven’t taken the ferry out lately. But seriously, it’s powerfully executed and just oozing with dark portent. OSHA can’t protect us after all.

Wyeth talks about his subject, expressing surprise that with artists crawling over every inch of Monhegan, nobody has painted this strange contraption in action. Instead they choose the pretty land/seascapes that everyone associates with the island. But I guess it’s no surprise. Few visitors go to Monhegan for the grit. Afterall, nobody wants their beach house to be near the incinerator, even if it’s just rolling by.

The fog! The rain! The chill in the air! Ah, it must be summer in Maine.

Not fair you say? Well, clouds over the rocky coast drenched us utterly during the entire week we spent there around the 4th of July.

We ventured up as far north as Camden. Great town. Skip the souvenir shops along the main drag and wander into Harbor park. Designed by Olmsted (of Central Park fame) it features a gorgeous amphitheathre. I won’t waste time describing it. See for yourself. Check out this great slideshow of Camden Harbor Park and Amphitheatre. After you take in that lovely spot, stroll down the hill and enjoy standing beside the great, crashing waterfall that spills out right beneath Main Street and into the harbor. Maybe during a drier season, it’s less dramatic (did I mention that it RAINED every day?).

TIP for coffee and wine lovers: If you’re headed up to Camden via Route 1, turn right on West St (at junction with 90). There’s a lovely wine shop at the end of the road, where you can also score a delicious espresso. Don’t miss out! Then head up Chestnut to drive north into Camden. If you do, you’ll see striped cows: Belted Galloways. Search Google Images for a preview.

We stayed on Pemaquid peninsula near New Harbor where we ate lobster at Shaw’s almost every day. We love Shaws. Make sure you have your lobster there. If there’s a crowd, don’t be daunted. Just score a drink at the tiny but sufficient bar to get you through the wait.

Pemaquid is famous for the Pemaquid lighthouse, of course. It’s a classic and appears on the back of the Maine quarter. The rocks around the light are terrific. Scamper over them, watch the surf and get some photos. BUT before you do, tour the keeper’s house and read the cautionary tale of the man who ventured down the rocks too close to the waves and got swept away into frigid October waters. (Pescadoo promotes wise adventuring through reading.)

The sun finally came out as we left and crossed the border into New Hampshire. So I’m sure the sun will shine on your Maine vacation. (But just in case, you can always refer back to this post and devote particular attention to the tips on procuring a comforting beverage or two.)