• 13Aug

    If you’re passing anywhere near Rockland, Maine before the end of this month, be sure to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum. They have an excellent collection and lots of location-appropriate coastal landscapes for you to view. But right now, they’re also showing an interesting series of pictures by Jamie Wyeth (paint scion descending from grandfather N.C. and father Andrew–both featured prominently in the Farnsworth’s regular collection).

    His show, The Seven Deadly Sins, is a series of visceral paintings of seagulls illustrating each of the deadly sins. But my favorite painting wasn’t an illustration of a sin. It’s the picture of a a scrawny boy with no shirt shoveling garbage into an incinerator on the beach while the gulls fly around trying to grab scraps before the refuse goes in the fire. Apparently, this is a makeshift, portable incinerator created on Monhegan Island, and, yes, the scary flames are stoked by a young boy. Apparently Department of Labor and OSHA reps haven’t taken the ferry out lately. But seriously, it’s powerfully executed and just oozing with dark portent. OSHA can’t protect us after all.

    Wyeth talks about his subject, expressing surprise that with artists crawling over every inch of Monhegan, nobody has painted this strange contraption in action. Instead they choose the pretty land/seascapes that everyone associates with the island. But I guess it’s no surprise. Few visitors go to Monhegan for the grit. Afterall, nobody wants their beach house to be near the incinerator, even if it’s just rolling by.

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  • 11Aug

    The fog! The rain! The chill in the air! Ah, it must be summer in Maine.

    Not fair you say? Well, clouds over the rocky coast drenched us utterly during the entire week we spent there around the 4th of July.

    We ventured up as far north as Camden. Great town. Skip the souvenir shops along the main drag and wander into Harbor park. Designed by Olmsted (of Central Park fame) it features a gorgeous amphitheathre. I won’t waste time describing it. See for yourself. Check out this great slideshow of Camden Harbor Park and Amphitheatre. After you take in that lovely spot, stroll down the hill and enjoy standing beside the great, crashing waterfall that spills out right beneath Main Street and into the harbor. Maybe during a drier season, it’s less dramatic (did I mention that it RAINED every day?).

    TIP for coffee and wine lovers: If you’re headed up to Camden via Route 1, turn right on West St (at junction with 90). There’s a lovely wine shop at the end of the road, where you can also score a delicious espresso. Don’t miss out! Then head up Chestnut to drive north into Camden. If you do, you’ll see striped cows: Belted Galloways. Search Google Images for a preview.

    We stayed on Pemaquid peninsula near New Harbor where we ate lobster at Shaw’s almost every day. We love Shaws. Make sure you have your lobster there. If there’s a crowd, don’t be daunted. Just score a drink at the tiny but sufficient bar to get you through the wait.

    Pemaquid is famous for the Pemaquid lighthouse, of course. It’s a classic and appears on the back of the Maine quarter. The rocks around the light are terrific. Scamper over them, watch the surf and get some photos. BUT before you do, tour the keeper’s house and read the cautionary tale of the man who ventured down the rocks too close to the waves and got swept away into frigid October waters. (Pescadoo promotes wise adventuring through reading.)

    The sun finally came out as we left and crossed the border into New Hampshire. So I’m sure the sun will shine on your Maine vacation. (But just in case, you can always refer back to this post and devote particular attention to the tips on procuring a comforting beverage or two.)

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  • 19May

    Quiet and balmy. That about sums up our recent trip to Sanibel Island.

    Bring a good book and hit the beach. There’s not much else to do here. We felt downright retired! (Too bad the old retirement savings account didn’t feel the same way.) Of course we enjoyed the walks on the beach too. -and cocktails on our lanai. We even collected shells, but weren’t sure why.

    For a fantastic meal with a view of the water, make a reservation at the Mad Hatter Restaurant. Absolutely delicious! Great service too. It was our best meal out.

    Tip: If you love to snorkel, you may want to hit the Keys or Caribbean instead. The waters off Sanibel are a bit murky. But the ocean is warm and great for swimming.

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  • 06Oct

    Visiting Hearst Castle soon?

    We recommend staying at the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. The hotel itself is simple, clean and dependable. What makes it special, is its location directly on the water can’t be beat. The hotels on moonstone down the road in Cambria are very nice, but the road cuts between them and the water. The Cavalier gives you direct access to the beach. A nice touch is that they light and tend fires in several chimineas along the beach every evening, so you can sit out and enjoy the sea breeze by the fire. Or, if you want more privacy, fix yourself a cocktail, sit on your room’s patio and enjoy the sunset.

    Cambria is a great little town. Don’t just zoom by on Route 1. Pull in, pop ‘round the shops and treat yourself to a great meal.  Above all, be sure to start every day right. Stop at Cambria Coffee Roasting Company for your morning fix. We’re still dreaming of their fresh, delicious brews and pastries. 

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  • 06Sep

    Lake Placid, NY - Do you love a beautiful lake view with a few pine trees thrown in for color? I know, the Adirondacks sound so promising, but when you start your research, all those buildings, chairs and porches made out of twigs can put you off.

    I’m not the type who takes his furniture with a side of bark, but can wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Lake Placid and a stay at the Mirror Lake Inn.

    Old postcard showing Mirror Lake and the Inn

    Old postcard showing Mirror Lake and the Inn

    The inn sits on a lovely spot overlooking Mirror Lake, just outside of the town of Lake Placid. The town itself sits on Mirror Lake too. Lake Placid is just over the hill. Mirror Lake is smaller and more peaceful as there are no motor craft on the water, only paddle-powered boats. Guests of the inn can use the hotel’s canoes and kayaks to get out on the water. If you’re the type who needs to roar around in a speedboat, momentarily reflect on what you’re compensating for, then pop over the hill to Lake Placid. Lake Placid is much larger and features huge expensive camps, which are best seen from the water. In fact, those on the west side of the lake are only accessible by water. Take the organized boat tour that leaves from the marina and you’ll not only get a good look at these “camps” but you’ll hear stories of those who built and lived in them.

    A "camp" and boat house on Lake Placid

    A "camp" and boat house on Lake Placid

    What is there to do at Mirror Lake Inn? Check out the Inn’s great swimming spots: a roped lake-side swimming area, outdoor pool with a baby-pool inset and the indoor lap pool and hot tub in the inn’s basement. When you need a break from the kids, stop in at the spa and then complete your break from reality with a cocktail in the lovely bar overlooking the lake. Later, walk into town and buy a book, some birch-bark artwork, or some ’80s Olympic souvenirs.

    As you’d expect, the inn abounds with porches where you can settle in with that great novel or your gin and tonic and take in the view. If there’s a chill in the air, make it a cognac and curl up next to a fireplace. While we waited for companions in the library, I half expected Teddy Roosevelt to show up for dinner.
    The Mirror Lake Inn is also a great place to throw a party or host family event. Staff members are well-trained and seem to actually care. Service is terrific. The food is excellent too.

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