If you’re passing anywhere near Rockland, Maine before the end of this month, be sure to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum. They have an excellent collection and lots of location-appropriate coastal landscapes for you to view. But right now, they’re also showing an interesting series of pictures by Jamie Wyeth (paint scion descending from grandfather N.C. and father Andrew–both featured prominently in the Farnsworth’s regular collection).

His show, The Seven Deadly Sins, is a series of visceral paintings of seagulls illustrating each of the deadly sins. But my favorite painting wasn’t an illustration of a sin. It’s the picture of a a scrawny boy with no shirt shoveling garbage into an incinerator on the beach while the gulls fly around trying to grab scraps before the refuse goes in the fire. Apparently, this is a makeshift, portable incinerator created on Monhegan Island, and, yes, the scary flames are stoked by a young boy. Apparently Department of Labor and OSHA reps haven’t taken the ferry out lately. But seriously, it’s powerfully executed and just oozing with dark portent. OSHA can’t protect us after all.

Wyeth talks about his subject, expressing surprise that with artists crawling over every inch of Monhegan, nobody has painted this strange contraption in action. Instead they choose the pretty land/seascapes that everyone associates with the island. But I guess it’s no surprise. Few visitors go to Monhegan for the grit. Afterall, nobody wants their beach house to be near the incinerator, even if it’s just rolling by.

The fog! The rain! The chill in the air! Ah, it must be summer in Maine.

Not fair you say? Well, clouds over the rocky coast drenched us utterly during the entire week we spent there around the 4th of July.

We ventured up as far north as Camden. Great town. Skip the souvenir shops along the main drag and wander into Harbor park. Designed by Olmsted (of Central Park fame) it features a gorgeous amphitheathre. I won’t waste time describing it. See for yourself. Check out this great slideshow of Camden Harbor Park and Amphitheatre. After you take in that lovely spot, stroll down the hill and enjoy standing beside the great, crashing waterfall that spills out right beneath Main Street and into the harbor. Maybe during a drier season, it’s less dramatic (did I mention that it RAINED every day?).

TIP for coffee and wine lovers: If you’re headed up to Camden via Route 1, turn right on West St (at junction with 90). There’s a lovely wine shop at the end of the road, where you can also score a delicious espresso. Don’t miss out! Then head up Chestnut to drive north into Camden. If you do, you’ll see striped cows: Belted Galloways. Search Google Images for a preview.

We stayed on Pemaquid peninsula near New Harbor where we ate lobster at Shaw’s almost every day. We love Shaws. Make sure you have your lobster there. If there’s a crowd, don’t be daunted. Just score a drink at the tiny but sufficient bar to get you through the wait.

Pemaquid is famous for the Pemaquid lighthouse, of course. It’s a classic and appears on the back of the Maine quarter. The rocks around the light are terrific. Scamper over them, watch the surf and get some photos. BUT before you do, tour the keeper’s house and read the cautionary tale of the man who ventured down the rocks too close to the waves and got swept away into frigid October waters. (Pescadoo promotes wise adventuring through reading.)

The sun finally came out as we left and crossed the border into New Hampshire. So I’m sure the sun will shine on your Maine vacation. (But just in case, you can always refer back to this post and devote particular attention to the tips on procuring a comforting beverage or two.)

Quiet and balmy. That about sums up our recent trip to Sanibel Island.

Bring a good book and hit the beach. There’s not much else to do here. We felt downright retired! (Too bad the old retirement savings account didn’t feel the same way.) Of course we enjoyed the walks on the beach too. -and cocktails on our lanai. We even collected shells, but weren’t sure why.

For a fantastic meal with a view of the water, make a reservation at the Mad Hatter Restaurant. Absolutely delicious! Great service too. It was our best meal out.

Tip: If you love to snorkel, you may want to hit the Keys or Caribbean instead. The waters off Sanibel are a bit murky. But the ocean is warm and great for swimming.

Can’t afford that home on the water? How about building a place out of water? Er, that is, a form of water.

Check out this extraordinary video that’s part of Dan Cruickshank’s fascinating Adventures in Architecture series. 

Visiting Hearst Castle soon?

We recommend staying at the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. The hotel itself is simple, clean and dependable. What makes it special, is its location directly on the water can’t be beat. The hotels on moonstone down the road in Cambria are very nice, but the road cuts between them and the water. The Cavalier gives you direct access to the beach. A nice touch is that they light and tend fires in several chimineas along the beach every evening, so you can sit out and enjoy the sea breeze by the fire. Or, if you want more privacy, fix yourself a cocktail, sit on your room’s patio and enjoy the sunset.

Cambria is a great little town. Don’t just zoom by on Route 1. Pull in, pop ‘round the shops and treat yourself to a great meal.  Above all, be sure to start every day right. Stop at Cambria Coffee Roasting Company for your morning fix. We’re still dreaming of their fresh, delicious brews and pastries. 

Ipswich, MA - Little Neck, in Ipswich Mass, is one of the most charming seaside communities ever.

The neck shoots off larger Great Neck and forms small hill that rises up behind Plum Island. Though a peninsula, it feels like an island and is surrounded by peaceful waters and sweeping ocean views. The hill is dotted with small charming summer cottages. Some are old fishing huts and all are simple, cozy and inviting. You feel transported to seaside 1927. In addition, it’s a warm, inviting community with a clubhouse and a summer full of organized activities for families.

This Little Neck view has not changed in the scores of years since this postcard was issued.

A highlight is the beach. When the tide is in, it’s not much – barely enough sand to place your chair on. But when the tide is out, it’s a glorious, wide sand spit that reaches out into the channel. You can practically wade (ok, maybe you have to swim for a few seconds) across the channel to gorgeous Crane beach.

Ready to make a purchase? You’ll find a few places for sale, but there’s a catch. You’re buying only the cottage, not the land underneath.  In 1660, William Paine donated Little Neck to Ipswich in trust to benefit local schools. A trust runs the land and rents it out, donating the proceeds to the town’s schools.  The trust is run by Feoffees (an old-fangled term meaning trustee). Originally the land was rented to farmers, but eventually, the sea view became the real draw.

If you’re like me, your family and friends would commit you if you spent large sum on real estate that isn’t really real estate but just wood, windows and screens. If you don’t control the land, couldn’t they take it away from you? Then you’ve got a whole lotta cottage to move to your real backyard (if, indeed, you own one of those).  In fact, a similar community in Connecticut was disbanded recently.

Sure enough, the arrangement in Little Neck has hit a rocky patch. In July 2006, the Feoffees drafted a new lease with higher rents, demanding that renters sign or move.  Renters are fighting the increases as unfair and untenable.  The Boston Globe has been covering the dispute.

The real problem? Cottages on Little Neck have sold for $250,000 to $600,000. That’s right: a half-million dollars, which is part of the problem here. Those high prices aren’t due to the amenities in these cottages (very few of which even have heat), but due to their locations. So really the value is based in the land itself, which belongs to the Feoffees and so should be reflected in the rent, not in the cottage price. Probably, a better system would be for the Foeffees to own, maintain and rent out each cottage.

But, it’s pretty tough to change the rules of game now. Most Little Neck residents have invested large sums in their cottages. Higher rates make it difficult for them to continue to rent and cover the mortgage and/or sell at an equally high price to get their money back out. It’s a mess. Also – a change like that would ruin the community feel that exists on the neck, and who knows if the Feofees want to handle upkeep, cleaning and administrative duties.

Hopefully they’ll settle the dispute. There must be a way for all parties to get the most out of this sublime spot. But, it took a while to get into this jam, and it may take a while to muddle out of it. 

Lake Placid, NY - Do you love a beautiful lake view with a few pine trees thrown in for color? I know, the Adirondacks sound so promising, but when you start your research, all those buildings, chairs and porches made out of twigs can put you off.

I’m not the type who takes his furniture with a side of bark, but can wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Lake Placid and a stay at the Mirror Lake Inn.

Old postcard showing Mirror Lake and the Inn

The inn sits on a lovely spot overlooking Mirror Lake, just outside of the town of Lake Placid. The town itself sits on Mirror Lake too. Lake Placid is just over the hill. Mirror Lake is smaller and more peaceful as there are no motor craft on the water, only paddle-powered boats. Guests of the inn can use the hotel’s canoes and kayaks to get out on the water. If you’re the type who needs to roar around in a speedboat, momentarily reflect on what you’re compensating for, then pop over the hill to Lake Placid. Lake Placid is much larger and features huge expensive camps, which are best seen from the water. In fact, those on the west side of the lake are only accessible by water. Take the organized boat tour that leaves from the marina and you’ll not only get a good look at these “camps” but you’ll hear stories of those who built and lived in them.

A "camp" and boat house on Lake Placid

What is there to do at Mirror Lake Inn? Check out the Inn’s great swimming spots: a roped lake-side swimming area, outdoor pool with a baby-pool inset and the indoor lap pool and hot tub in the inn’s basement. When you need a break from the kids, stop in at the spa and then complete your break from reality with a cocktail in the lovely bar overlooking the lake. Later, walk into town and buy a book, some birch-bark artwork, or some ’80s Olympic souvenirs.

As you’d expect, the inn abounds with porches where you can settle in with that great novel or your gin and tonic and take in the view. If there’s a chill in the air, make it a cognac and curl up next to a fireplace. While we waited for companions in the library, I half expected Teddy Roosevelt to show up for dinner.
The Mirror Lake Inn is also a great place to throw a party or host family event. Staff members are well-trained and seem to actually care. Service is terrific. The food is excellent too.

Gloucester, MA - Probably this site’s Homes on the Water category should be titled Houses We Covet. Here’s one I’ve admired for years:

Mansion McDreamy: The Birdcage House on Sherman Point

Perched on a rocky point overlooking Gloucester’s magnificent Good Harbor Beach, this house was built by Judge Edgar J. Sherman in 1878. It was actually bolted to the rocks to keep it from being swept away. Not sure if that’s in line with today’s building codes, but it’s kept house and cupola in its gorgeous location for years. The structure even withstood the 1938 hurricane.

There’s a great mention of it in the September 1891 Edition of The New England Magazine:

…the judge not only founded his house on the traditional rock but placed it so that a pebble might be dropped from the piazza into the restless surges directly below. Perched high above the ocean though it is, for it is nearly seventy feet at low water, the spray moistens the windows at times, and not infrequently an angry wave comes startlingly near the door.

Can you put a price on such a location and lovely structure? Well, sure. It was listed for sale last year at $8 million.